![]() ![]() You could add jump seats along the transom if you wish, or cooler and fish boxes, or leave it flush and just have more open space. You have tons of options for that space, plus more fishing room. The new added space can be used for tons of things.an indeck fish box, or an aux fuel tank, even a big livewell or dry storage boxes. I think going to an outboard is a smart move if the boat is in decent shape and will not need major work, and that you plan to keep it for a while. There is not right or wrong way, they just might require more layers, cost different, or weight more or less. Likely it will be a cored foam stringer and glassed with anywhere from 4-6 layers of glass, likely both bi and tri axial glass, there are many ways of doing it and every yard or consultant will give you a slight variation. A good yard should be able to do this, but you might want to consult someone with an engineering background or a structural consultant to review what you might need as far as layup to be strong enough. The transom should be reinforced for sure, and reglassed over on both sides to insure safety and strength. Best bet is to remove the stringers aft of the last bulkhead and then replace them with new beefier ones that can withstand the load of the new engine placement, whather it be a bracket or notched transom. You can do it, but like mentioned above, you will need to consider the structural intergrity of the boat. I happy to report that the engine is still firmly attached to the boat. ![]() In the summer of 2007 I put 1,400 water miles on the boat and 1,200 trailer miles chasing walleye/pike in Ontario and salmon on Lake Michigan. ![]() I have trailered this boat many times into N. She balanced out well and sits in the water just fine. The engine and outdrive weighed 600 lbs and the outboad and bracket weighed 400 lbs. The bracket is mounted to the transom with 6 - 1/2" stainless bolts with channel used as back up plates. The braces were through bolted to the inside of the transom plywood and then to the stringers in the area where the inboard engine was mounted. I also had stainless "Knee braces" made for the boat. I replaced the transom plywood (rot) with three pieces of 3/4" plywood epoxied together for a thickness of 2-1/4 plus a bit for the epoxy in the sandwhich. It has been 6 or 7 years now and it has been a suscessful conversion. aluminum boat from an I/O to an outboard. Get a good structural inspection and don't spare the reinforcement. I think you can be successful but you have to consider the overall impact of putting all that weight and torque way out there on the back of the boat. Lucily I bought the new boat from the dealer who sold me the new Yammi and he credited me fully for the return motor but not for the glass work or the bracket. I pulled the decking to find that the stringers were broken, primarily due to age and the huge cantilever we hung off the back of the boat. The boat ran like a scalded dog - I mean the performance was absolutely great!Īfter about a month while returning from about 50 miles offshore, I noticed the floor flexing with every pound of a wave - not good. I used the space gained under the deck for an additional fuel tank. We removed the I/O (350), glassed up and reinforced the transom, then added a bracket and a new Yammi 225. I did the conversion on an older 22 foot Invader that I owned years ago. ![]()
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